@_aclassic_: @_aclassic_ Saltwater story 👇👇 - Featuring @taco and 🎥 @ Part 1/2 - Part 2/2 out now on instagram - follow the link in bio to @_aclassic_ First off just wanted to say I’m grateful to be able to tell this story again because I had the opportunity when tracks did a cover after it happened. People were calling this one of those “one in a decade swells” to hit Sydney. But I remember the carts not being as big until the next morning. I hopped on my scooter to check it. On my way down I was just keen to go out and surf my gun. When I saw a couple of sets, I was thinking this might be the biggest I’ve seen Bronte! It also wasn’t clean, ugly and too consistent. That day we were meant to have a novelty big wave comp for boardriders around the cliffs (cemos) but was too big to send out little grommets to test themselves. The sketchiest part was getting out, normally when it gets big at home we go round to the cemo cliffs to jump off but this was gnarliest and most dangerous I’ve had it. Usually, I don’t like taking long so I found a little lull and darted out, but I probably should of waited more because I was seconds from being caught and washed back up the cliffs. After making it out I was trying to find a good place to sit, when it’s this size there’s no ‘one’ take off zone. So, after waiting a bit I tried my luck on a set and fell from the take off, but luckily not breaking my board or leggie. On the paddle back out one of the next sets turned out to be the wave I got, it stood up tall and clean and I couldn’t let it pass so I swung late and took off. Aclassic! #surfing #surf #surfer #waves #beach #ocean #surflife #surfphotography #surfinglife #surfboard #sea #travel #sup #surfers #beachlife #surftrip #Summer #wave #surfergirl #longboard #surfboards #watersports #surfingphotography #bodyboarder #bodyboard #bodyboarding #bluewatertherapy #aclassic

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Friday 02 June 2023 20:53:06 GMT