@_aclassic_: @_aclassic_ Saltwater story 👇👇 - Featuring @mattdunsmore and 🎥 @ I remember walking down to the beach to paddle out and seeing the whole horizon stacked with huge lumps and saying to myself “shit it’s huge, this is the day to get a bomb”. It’s about a 20 minute paddle out, the place was packed at least 50 people out with boats and skis full in the channel. I was one of the first out and I pulled back on a really big one that bottomed out, I didn’t see an entry. I was so angry at Myself for not giving it a crack, so I made sure if I was in that position again to really be under it, paddle early and put myself in the spot that I’m going no matter what. I caught 3 waves before this one and made them all so my confidence was up. We could see this set coming from a long way away so the whole pack was scrabbling out to sea. There was 3 or 4 people up before me so I had no intention of going the wave at all thinking someone would swing. There was a tiny little wedge chip that popped up right Infront of me, I thought ‘shit, no one’s turning around’, so I sat up on my board and waited a few more seconds to realise everyone’s still paddling to go up and over it so I swung. I got lucky with the spot I was in, riding a 9”6 board I knew the paddle power would give me an entry. Was such a beautiful wave I remember seeing the water draining off the reef and thinking I got this everything feels right. Scooped to the bottom and let go of my rail and everything went in slow motion. Everyone in the channel was hooting and screaming wasn’t a drop out of place for this wave. I pulled off with a big smile and a big stoke, I’ve been smoked a lot out this place it’s seriously intimidating but for me moments like this make it all worth it. Aclassic! #surfing #surf #surfer #waves #beach #ocean #surflife #surfphotography #surfinglife #surfboard #sea #travel #sup #surfers #beachlife #surftrip #Summer #wave #surfergirl #longboard #surfboards #watersports #surfingphotography #bodyboarder #bodyboard #bodyboarding #bluewatertherapy #aclassic

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Sunday 11 June 2023 00:52:54 GMT