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ParaglidingThailand
ParaglidingThailand
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Monday 16 September 2024 23:40:22 GMT
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oceanwingz2
Paragliding School OceanWingZ :
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2024-09-17 01:47:13
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Handle pulling, one of my favourite processes, yes it looks salacious, trust me, I’ve heard it.   It’s a quick and easy method, yet the initial learning stage can be troublesome as you’ll inevitably destroy many well thrown and trimmed pots with sloppy, poorly pulled handles. With enough practice though this disparity will level. I learnt by pulling 5-6 handles on one chunky cylinder, then I’d cut them off, let the pot dry, and try again and again until it started to make sense.   There are a few questions that always come up when I show this process, so here are the answers you might be looking for. I attach the blanks immediately after pulling them. I don’t let them dry or alter their shape prior to adjoining the blanks to the cups, instead they’re fastened on whilst still tremendously soft, this way they’re much easier to blend into the bodies of the cups. Now, obviously, as you’re attaching soft clay to harder, leather hard clay, you need to be careful how you dry the object thereafter.   If you were to leave the pot uncovered, the cup that’s drier would quickly turn bone dry and the handle would crack off the pot, or the other way around, depending on the thickness/style of the components. The key is to cover them with plastic after the fact. I place my mugs on a plastic lined board, spray them lightly with water, and then tightly wrap them up, this way, the clay components of differing dryness slowly acclimatise and become the same consistency. Then, once that’s happened, they can be uncovered and dried evenly, without the cracking forming around the joins.   There’s a lot more that comes up, but Instagram captions can only be so long, but if you would like to learn more about this process, I recommend watching my handle making guide that’s over on my YouTube channel, it covers everything!   #clay #handles #satisfying #studiopottery #ceramics #madeinlondon
Handle pulling, one of my favourite processes, yes it looks salacious, trust me, I’ve heard it. It’s a quick and easy method, yet the initial learning stage can be troublesome as you’ll inevitably destroy many well thrown and trimmed pots with sloppy, poorly pulled handles. With enough practice though this disparity will level. I learnt by pulling 5-6 handles on one chunky cylinder, then I’d cut them off, let the pot dry, and try again and again until it started to make sense. There are a few questions that always come up when I show this process, so here are the answers you might be looking for. I attach the blanks immediately after pulling them. I don’t let them dry or alter their shape prior to adjoining the blanks to the cups, instead they’re fastened on whilst still tremendously soft, this way they’re much easier to blend into the bodies of the cups. Now, obviously, as you’re attaching soft clay to harder, leather hard clay, you need to be careful how you dry the object thereafter. If you were to leave the pot uncovered, the cup that’s drier would quickly turn bone dry and the handle would crack off the pot, or the other way around, depending on the thickness/style of the components. The key is to cover them with plastic after the fact. I place my mugs on a plastic lined board, spray them lightly with water, and then tightly wrap them up, this way, the clay components of differing dryness slowly acclimatise and become the same consistency. Then, once that’s happened, they can be uncovered and dried evenly, without the cracking forming around the joins. There’s a lot more that comes up, but Instagram captions can only be so long, but if you would like to learn more about this process, I recommend watching my handle making guide that’s over on my YouTube channel, it covers everything! #clay #handles #satisfying #studiopottery #ceramics #madeinlondon
Breakage like this is rare, despite putting out a handful of videos out there like this a year. The bucket you see me filling up happens very gradually and thankfully so far, all of these shards have been collected over the years by people who intend to use them for other purposes. They don’t go into landfill. So far, they’ve been used as shards combined with poured concrete, like terrazzo, for mosaics and even ground up to a fine powder and incorporated back into clay that’s then moulded into new work. I’m looking into a way of pulverising the fired pieces too, in studio, so that I can add it back to my own clays as grog.   In reality, I make very few pots, perhaps 1500 a year, sometimes more, sometimes less. I’m not a factory churning out work but a single person and perhaps about 30-40 pots actually get destroyed like this a year. I wish it wasn’t the case, or that there was less, but I do keep a majority of my functional seconds aside, to sell one day from my studio, but if there’s no chance they’ll survive the glaze firing, or cannot be used, this is what happens.   It’s quality control and as a craftsperson I need to be quite vigilant about what goes out into the world, after all, these objects represent me and I’d hate knowing that I sent someone a defective vessel. Or, like I’ve seen before, potters' seconds and thirds are then sold as firsts, which certainly wasn’t the makers intention.   As for those who might say to donate them, which is a comment that often comes up, I think the focus should be on donating objects that those in need actually want, rather than broken pots that won’t last long. Breakage is part of being a potter, I try to waste as little as possible but the truth is something things are out of our control when working with this medium.    #smash #asmr #fail #pottery #qualitycontrol #oddlysatisfying
Breakage like this is rare, despite putting out a handful of videos out there like this a year. The bucket you see me filling up happens very gradually and thankfully so far, all of these shards have been collected over the years by people who intend to use them for other purposes. They don’t go into landfill. So far, they’ve been used as shards combined with poured concrete, like terrazzo, for mosaics and even ground up to a fine powder and incorporated back into clay that’s then moulded into new work. I’m looking into a way of pulverising the fired pieces too, in studio, so that I can add it back to my own clays as grog. In reality, I make very few pots, perhaps 1500 a year, sometimes more, sometimes less. I’m not a factory churning out work but a single person and perhaps about 30-40 pots actually get destroyed like this a year. I wish it wasn’t the case, or that there was less, but I do keep a majority of my functional seconds aside, to sell one day from my studio, but if there’s no chance they’ll survive the glaze firing, or cannot be used, this is what happens. It’s quality control and as a craftsperson I need to be quite vigilant about what goes out into the world, after all, these objects represent me and I’d hate knowing that I sent someone a defective vessel. Or, like I’ve seen before, potters' seconds and thirds are then sold as firsts, which certainly wasn’t the makers intention. As for those who might say to donate them, which is a comment that often comes up, I think the focus should be on donating objects that those in need actually want, rather than broken pots that won’t last long. Breakage is part of being a potter, I try to waste as little as possible but the truth is something things are out of our control when working with this medium. #smash #asmr #fail #pottery #qualitycontrol #oddlysatisfying

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