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Monday 30 December 2024 13:21:12 GMT
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‘In the dark on the first morning of the swell I got rinsed in the shore break on the island when launching the Jetski and thats when I broke my arm!  I knew it was bad, but I didn’t want to admit it as I knew this next series of swells were going to the best of the year and I didn’t want to miss it so I just sucked it up and went our anyways! But it put me into full tilt mode and I was way too adrenalised and the hurt arm was just the beginning of a series of bad calls for the rest of the day as within 15mins of being out here I got hit by a wave on the ski and because my arm was hurt I couldn’t hold on and got rinsed again and lost the ski, destroyed my board and still hadn’t even caught a wave!  It got big quick and the second reef started breaking so I thought I’d paddle out there on a big board and try and catch a wave to see if I could still paddle and stand up but just couldn’t get in position properly and then eventually got in the right spot for a good one, but then decided I was a little late so tried to pull back but got sucked over the falls backwards and got destroyed and my bad decisions continued! I got caught by a couple sets, then got a close out and got lit up and just had no energy left so called it and went back to the island (@namotuisland )broken. Chilled for a bit and tried to snap out of the mental space I was in and recalibrate which I did and headed back out for the afternoon and finally got into a better rhythm!  My arm was pretty cooked but I could manage the pain if I was selective and I made this my game plan over the next 7 days as we had 3 back to back swells and ended up getting some really fun moments on what I consider to be one of the best swells this year!’ - @bennywilson  📸- @calebpont_  Aclassic!!  #surfing #surf #surfer #waves #beach #ocean #surflife #surfphotography #surfinglife #surfboard #travel #surfers #story #surftrip
‘In the dark on the first morning of the swell I got rinsed in the shore break on the island when launching the Jetski and thats when I broke my arm! I knew it was bad, but I didn’t want to admit it as I knew this next series of swells were going to the best of the year and I didn’t want to miss it so I just sucked it up and went our anyways! But it put me into full tilt mode and I was way too adrenalised and the hurt arm was just the beginning of a series of bad calls for the rest of the day as within 15mins of being out here I got hit by a wave on the ski and because my arm was hurt I couldn’t hold on and got rinsed again and lost the ski, destroyed my board and still hadn’t even caught a wave! It got big quick and the second reef started breaking so I thought I’d paddle out there on a big board and try and catch a wave to see if I could still paddle and stand up but just couldn’t get in position properly and then eventually got in the right spot for a good one, but then decided I was a little late so tried to pull back but got sucked over the falls backwards and got destroyed and my bad decisions continued! I got caught by a couple sets, then got a close out and got lit up and just had no energy left so called it and went back to the island (@namotuisland )broken. Chilled for a bit and tried to snap out of the mental space I was in and recalibrate which I did and headed back out for the afternoon and finally got into a better rhythm! My arm was pretty cooked but I could manage the pain if I was selective and I made this my game plan over the next 7 days as we had 3 back to back swells and ended up getting some really fun moments on what I consider to be one of the best swells this year!’ - @bennywilson 📸- @calebpont_ Aclassic!! #surfing #surf #surfer #waves #beach #ocean #surflife #surfphotography #surfinglife #surfboard #travel #surfers #story #surftrip

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