Lab Muffin Beauty Science
Region: AU
Tuesday 21 July 2026 14:12:16 GMT
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greggyburr ˚✧ 🫧 :
And that’s why you’re the only cosmetic scientist I trust! Some of these claims about Anua having only like 0.05% actual Azelaic content is so misleading and whenever I ask them to provide a higher level research study for reference they couldn’t give any and instead just link Skinecologic’s video
2026-07-22 08:49:18
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Skinecologic :
Michelle, you are the GOAT!! I have huge respect for what you do; you are also an inspiration to me. While I had no idea how much of a hoopla this would begin, boy was I not mentally prepared. My ultimate goal here was making the average consumer aware of what they were buying and asking for more transparency from our cosmetics industry. When an average consumer buys a “10% Azelaic Acid” serum, they can reasonably expect something comparable to what we understand the 10% azelaic acid serum to be. If you are creating an azelate product, they should say so! I ofcourse did mention about the best available data we have on maximising azelaic acids flux through the skin is pH 4.9 vs a 3.9. And the data that I did go through, granted, is in vitro and also showed that a lower pH had a better effect on the acne-causing bacteria: pH 4 vs 6 and 5.6 vs 6, etc. So the pH of the formula does seem to have an importance depending on what we are aiming for, even if azelaic acid is a little strange😅. And hey, if the azelates seem to work wonders for some, that's great; skin is weird that way. Ultimately, I would love to see proper clinical testing on these neutralised azelate serums. Those studies are expensive, so they may never happen, but perhaps this conversation, which I absolutely did not expect to become so big, will encourage more research and better transparency or maybe even the brand sharing any of their proprietary data with us if they have it, as theory is one thing Data is another. ❤️❤️❤️ps I left this comment on your Insta as well, but grammar left me in trying to put my thoughts to text as fast as my brain was trying to get my fingers to type 😅🥰
2026-07-21 16:24:03
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ehyan444 :
the skin1004 azelaic works well with my skin! 🥹
2026-07-21 14:45:22
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lolashss :
Can you please review the entire epii brand there is not a SINGLE person I trust who talks about this brand right now but you 😭
2026-07-21 18:56:45
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Dee :
Buf he is a clinical scientist.
2026-07-22 07:27:58
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тгк полка над раковиной :
But it seems that the pH levels in this study were both quite low, weren’t they? A pH of 3.9 and 4.5 should both allow azelaic acid to work effectively but pH of 6.5 probably wouldn’t. Am I understanding this correctly? I’m genuinely curious, thank you for answering
2026-07-21 15:02:01
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Rem :
Only you and Dr. Dray are the only ones I trust when it comes to skincare!
2026-07-25 12:42:37
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rvnto :
Love it. It does seems like there are so many unknowns and conflicting opinions. In any case I think we can all agree listing a product as 10% azelaic acid is misleading when its formulation has significantly affected its chemical structure. It’s essentially a different product.
2026-07-22 01:57:12
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vicki123 :
The ANUA one really works for me x
2026-07-21 14:45:06
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Booker Williams :
Penetration is just one of many factors and azelaic, like other acids, needs to be protonated to be active, which is paramount for effectiveness. It's of no use that a molecule penetrates down to a person's soul if the molecule isn't active at all. That's why formulations like Anua's aren't as effective as The Ordinary's or Inkey List. Emulsions require a less acid pH than suspensions, yada yada yada. Bottom line, sure, it's complex, but then again, so much so that this take is a less simplified simplification.
2026-07-24 03:07:55
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skincarewithfatima :
also the vehicle is key, 15% gel is absorbed better than a 20% cream
2026-07-23 12:50:55
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Alex :
Are there any vitamin c serums you know of specifically that do what the article you cited said?
2026-07-22 00:47:09
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Ye Lan :
I've tried Anua and Celdyque azelaic acid serums. They both worked for acne and sebderm just fine
2026-07-21 15:27:58
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Mark Stephen :
No hate here: 🛑 She took some time and give some theoretical explanations and ended up suggesting to just try the product and see if it works for you. This is exactly why reviews must be reviewed.
2026-07-21 23:44:37
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Toyotaprius :
It works for me !! So 🤷🏻♀️
2026-07-22 13:27:16
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user4413956381512 :
Yes!! ultimately, formulation is king but ofc the end users aren't the ones doing the formulating, so I prioritise shopping products that have a little bit more going for them: some clinical testing, manufactured by large cosmetic conglomerates (formulating prowess, more funding thus higher likelihood of extensive research/clinical testing), special classifications like quasi-drug (Japan)/functional cosmetics (South Korea) etc. And even with all that what ultimately matters is the product's performance and results it delivers for me specifically. One rly will just have to try it to know 😅
2026-07-23 14:37:42
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Hernan :
He is right in boy, if they tell you 12% azelaic and the pH does not go hand in hand, he really has no 12%! And that's for all assets... 😒
2026-07-21 23:05:00
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Rosie :
I love your channel. Truly no BS
2026-07-22 01:19:16
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Louise :
I’ve been using nineless’ azelaic acid for about two months, but I’m not seeing a ton of results. I’ve got rosacea and super oily skin and occasional breakouts. I’ll use up the bottle, and switch to a traditional “white goop” cream and see how that works 😂
2026-07-21 15:02:41
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_irhm :
Could you give opinion on PAD ( Azelaic acid derivatives ) 🥺🥺 ?
2026-07-21 15:37:16
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Annihilation Nation :
I'm sticking with the goop ! I've been exfoliating more and my skin is all the better for it so I haven't needed it for a long time .
2026-07-22 06:49:00
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Mau :D :
Dr Wong, I've been wondering if there's any actual formulations with EGCG (from green tea) that have evidence behind it, I'm a chemE student and had a semester of cosmetic formulation and was really interested in this molecule, since it's a bit bigger than other antiox like vit C but has a lot of different benefits, is there an actual way to include it successfully in a cosmetic formulation to get the most out of it?
2026-07-21 14:54:47
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rememberharambe :
been using the ordinary's version and I think I like it? hard to say what effect it's having since I'm doing so many other things, but I am not getting much acne right now
2026-07-21 15:35:53
1
Rabbit :
I actually love this discussion. Scientists can still debate and disagree on things that seem fundamental.
2026-07-26 18:56:21
0
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