Timo :
truing stand not needed, but let this dutch person explain something to you: the goal with building and truing a wheel is to get all spokes on each side at the same tension, within the manufacturers specification, or by feel. the easiest check is to push two parallel spokes together between two fingers and they shouldnt move more than a centimeter. that gives you a good baseline. if thats correct you can true the wheel, a true stand is usefull but a ziptie on the bikes frame works well too. always work starting from.the valve and do a full rotation so you dont get lost. make sure to apply tension evenly over multiple spokes when compensating for any misalignments, when the wheel is straight you can start plucking the spokes so they make a ping sound, you want to listen to all spokes on one side and choose a frequency thats in the middle of all of them, then start adjusting spokes toward that frequency, after that you move to the other side of the wheel, and alternate between sides while checking for wheel alignment. when everything seems propper, you take the wheel off, take a rubber matte or old bike inner tube and out the wheels axle on top of it on the ground, and apply pressure to the rim of the wheel, you should put almost your whole body weight into it and hear the spokes ping and settle into place, then you check for alignment again on the bike. if the wheel is still straight then youre almost ready, do one more check of spoke tension and do the last adjustments, after that you can ride the bike a bit, then check tension again, if it looks good, keep riding. with new wheels ive done a check at 1km, then 10km, then 100km, and if it barrly needed adjustments after that youre probably good for the life of the bike, but a check every so often cant hurt. ohh and last tip, nake sure the air is out of the tire before you work on the spokes as it can skew results
2026-04-22 08:51:35